Sydney Fish Market is one of the largest of its kind in the Southern Hemisphere, and for anyone serious about sushi and sashimi at home, it is an essential destination. I visit at least twice a month, and over the years I have developed a routine that I think serves sushi enthusiasts well.

The market sits on Blackwattle Bay in Pyrmont, and while it draws tourists by the busload, it is fundamentally a working wholesale and retail market. Understanding that dual nature helps you navigate it more effectively.

Arriving Early Matters

The auction floor operates from the early hours of the morning, and by the time the retail stalls open, the best fish has already been sorted and graded. If you arrive before 8am on a weekday, you will have the widest selection and the least competition for premium pieces. Weekends are busier and the quality, while still good, tends to be a step below what is available midweek.

I recommend making a full circuit of the market before buying anything. Prices and quality vary between stalls, and what looks impressive at the first counter may be outshone by what you find at the third.

What to Look For in Sashimi-Grade Fish

The term “sashimi-grade” is not regulated in Australia, which means it is essentially a marketing label. What you are really looking for are signs of freshness and proper handling. Here is what I check:

Eyes and gills. On whole fish, the eyes should be clear and slightly bulging, not sunken or cloudy. The gills should be bright red, not brown or grey.

Flesh firmness. Press the flesh gently with a finger. It should spring back. If the indentation stays, the fish is past its best.

Smell. Fresh fish smells like the ocean — clean and briny. Any ammonia or strong fishy odour means it has been sitting too long.

Colour. Tuna should be a deep, vibrant red. Salmon should be a consistent orange-pink without brown edges. Kingfish should be pale and translucent with a slight sheen.

The Best Stalls for Sushi Fish

Several stalls at the market cater specifically to the sushi and sashimi market. They tend to stock pre-portioned blocks of tuna, salmon, and kingfish that are cut for slicing rather than cooking. These blocks are usually stored at the correct temperature and handled with the care that raw consumption demands.

I have found that the stalls staffed by people who clearly have experience with Japanese cuisine — they will know terms like saku (a rectangular block cut for sashimi) and understand the difference between chu-toro and o-toro — are consistently the most reliable.

Do not overlook the smaller operators either. Some of the best prawns and scallops I have used for nigiri have come from less prominent stalls that specialise in shellfish.

Beyond the Obvious Choices

Salmon and tuna dominate the sushi scene in Australia, but the market offers far more than that. I encourage home sushi makers to experiment with:

Hiramasa (yellowtail kingfish). This is arguably Australia’s finest sushi fish. The flesh is clean, slightly sweet, and has a beautiful fat content that sits somewhere between lean tuna and rich salmon.

Raw prawns (amaebi-style). Sweet prawns eaten raw have a creamy, almost custard-like texture that is completely different from cooked prawn. Look for the freshest spot prawns you can find.

Scallops. Hokkaido-style raw scallops are a staple of good sushi bars, and Australian scallops — particularly from Tasmania — are excellent for this purpose.

Snapper and bream. White-fleshed fish are underrepresented in casual sushi in Australia, but they are central to traditional Edo-mae sushi. A thin slice of fresh snapper with a touch of yuzu is a revelation.

Storing Your Purchase

How you transport and store the fish matters as much as how you select it. Bring an insulated bag with ice packs. The fish should stay cold from the moment you buy it until the moment you cut it.

At home, wrap the fish tightly in plastic wrap, then in a damp paper towel, and store it in the coldest part of your fridge. Use it within 24 hours for sashimi. For cooked preparations, you have a little more flexibility, but freshness still counts.

A Word on Sustainability

The fish market is increasingly conscious of sustainability, and as sushi lovers, we should be too. Look for fish that is line-caught or sustainably farmed. Ask the vendors about provenance. Australian fisheries are generally well-managed compared to many parts of the world, but not all species are in equally good shape.

Choosing local and seasonal fish is one of the best things you can do, both for the environment and for your sushi. Fish that has been caught nearby and handled minimally will almost always taste better than something that has been frozen and shipped across the globe.

The market is a place where curiosity is rewarded. Talk to the vendors, ask questions, and be willing to try something unfamiliar. That spirit of exploration is, after all, at the heart of great sushi.