Walk into any sushi restaurant in Sydney and you will find two fundamentally different approaches to rolled sushi sharing the same menu. On one side, the traditional Japanese maki — tight, restrained, built around one or two ingredients wrapped in nori and rice. On the other, the Western-style roll — larger, often inside-out, loaded with multiple fillings, and frequently topped with sauces, tobiko, and tempura crumbs.

Both have their place, and I enjoy both, but they represent very different philosophies about what sushi is supposed to be. Understanding the distinction makes you a better eater.

Traditional Maki

In Japanese sushi tradition, maki-zushi (rolled sushi) comes in several forms, all characterised by simplicity.

Hosomaki. Thin rolls with a single filling wrapped in nori on the outside. Kappa maki (cucumber), tekka maki (tuna), and natto maki (fermented soybean) are the classics. These are tight, small rolls cut into six pieces, designed to be eaten in one bite. The balance between rice, nori, and filling is precise, and the nori should be crisp enough to provide texture.

Futomaki. Thick rolls with multiple fillings, traditionally eaten during Setsubun (the bean-throwing festival) and as part of bento boxes. Despite having several ingredients, futomaki maintains a controlled composition. Each ingredient is chosen for how it interacts with the others — the sweetness of kanpyo (dried gourd), the colour of tamagoyaki (rolled omelette), the crunch of cucumber.

Temaki. Hand rolls shaped like an ice cream cone, with nori on the outside and fillings visible at the open end. These are meant to be eaten immediately — within 30 seconds of assembly — before the nori loses its crispness. A temaki with fresh tuna, shiso leaf, and a smear of wasabi is one of the great simple pleasures of sushi.

Uramaki. Inside-out rolls with rice on the outside and nori within. This format actually originated in the United States in the 1960s, reportedly because American diners found the appearance of nori on the outside unappealing. It has since become the dominant format for Western-style rolls.

Western-Style Rolls

The California roll — crab (or imitation crab), avocado, and cucumber in an inside-out roll — is usually credited as the starting point for Western sushi roll culture. From there, the format exploded into an enormous variety of creations.

Common features of Western-style rolls include: multiple fillings (often four or more), cream cheese or avocado for richness, tempura-battered components for crunch, sauces drizzled on top (spicy mayo, eel sauce, sriracha), and garnishes like tobiko, sesame seeds, or fried shallots.

The names tend to be creative — Dragon Roll, Rainbow Roll, Volcano Roll — and the flavour profiles are bold and layered. These are not subtle creations. They are designed to deliver maximum impact in every bite.

An Honest Comparison

Traditional maki is about restraint. Each roll showcases one or two ingredients against the backdrop of perfectly seasoned rice and crisp nori. The flavours are clean and distinct. You taste the fish, you taste the rice, you taste the seaweed. Nothing competes.

Western-style rolls are about abundance. The goal is a complex flavour experience where multiple textures and tastes arrive simultaneously. They are richer, more filling, and more immediately exciting.

Neither approach is inherently superior. But I do think there is a meaningful difference in what they ask of the ingredients. A traditional tekka maki demands excellent tuna because there is nothing else to focus on. A Western-style roll with five fillings and two sauces can mask mediocre fish behind layers of other flavours. This is not always what happens, but it is a structural possibility that affects how some restaurants approach quality.

Making Maki at Home

Rolling sushi at home is one of the more enjoyable kitchen projects, and maki is the most accessible starting point. You need a bamboo rolling mat (makisu), nori sheets, prepared sushi rice, and your chosen fillings.

For hosomaki: lay a half-sheet of nori on the mat, spread a thin layer of rice over most of it (leave a centimetre-wide strip at the far edge for sealing), lay your filling in a line across the centre, and roll tightly away from you, using the mat to apply even pressure. Wet the bare nori strip to seal.

The keys to a good roll are: not too much rice (this is the most common beginner mistake), fillings cut to a consistent size, and firm, even pressure during rolling. Practice with cucumber — it is cheap and forgiving.

For inside-out rolls, the technique is similar but you place plastic wrap over the mat, lay the rice on the nori, flip it so the rice faces down, add fillings, and roll. The plastic wrap prevents the rice from sticking to the mat.

Where I Land

I eat traditional maki when I want to appreciate the quality of the fish and the skill of the chef. I eat Western-style rolls when I want something indulgent and fun. Both cravings are valid.

What I would encourage is this: if you mostly eat Western-style rolls, try ordering a simple hosomaki on your next visit. A tekka maki or a negi-toro (minced fatty tuna with spring onion) roll from a good kitchen might change your perspective on what rolled sushi can be. The simplicity is the point, and when the ingredients are good, nothing more is needed.